EXCERPTS FROM THE DIARY OF HUGH B. WOODROFFE
WRITTEN DURING HIS VISIT TO ENGLAND IN APPROXIMATELY 1937, JUNE 18 TO AUG.
3.
June 30: - This morning I met my uncle (Uncle Hugh of England) at
11:30 and we started our day's tour by going to the Tower of London. From
the monument we walked a few blocks to the Bank of England. I have often
heard my father speak of it as the old lady on Threadneedle street. Across
the street from the Bank of England is the Mansion House, where the Lord
Mayor of London lives during his term of office. A number of years ago, Sir
Thomas Woodroffe, a distant relative of mine, lived in this mansion and was
Lord Mayor of London. My uncle then walked with me to a street called Old
Change and pointed out at the bottom of Old Change a large business firm:
Carter Platt & Co., and he told me that my uncle John worked for this
firm before he came to America in 1888. We then walked some three or four
blocks and he pointed out another firm the name of which was printed in large
letters across the front of the building as follows: "Williams & Sons".
That is where your father was working before he came to America in 1860",
my uncle said. Father was then 16 years old and left home and came to the
U.S.A. He landed in New York after a very trying voyage of six weeks on the
ocean. After writing to his parents and receiving money, he returned to England
but soon went back to America, for he liked his new surroundings.
July 1: - At three o'clock I went to Morden College (where Uncle Hugh lived)
and met my cousin, William Woodroffe, and his wife. My uncle invited us all
to the garden where we watched about six old gentlemen play lawn bowling.
We drank tea and ate strawberries and cake. It was most pleasant to talk
to my cousin. He told me of his experience on the ocean some years ago when
he was making one of his trips to India, at which time the ship that carried
them was totally wrecked when it struck a rock in a bad storm. William was
one of the passengers who swam for a mile with a life-belt to safety. It
was a thrilling experience. Several people belonging to the Royal Family
were on the boat. There were many false reports concerning the disaster that
reached London before the accident was correctly described. No one was killed
or injured, but all had a very narrow escape.
My uncle gathered a large bouquet of flowers and filled a market bag with
vegetables from his garden for his affectionate children as he said good-bye.
July 2: - when I was a boy listening to my father brag about old England,
as all Englishmen do, I often dreamed of the experiences I am having now.
I have always looked upon my English ancestry with a great deal of pride
and joy, but never before have I been stirred to the point when I would sit
down and write about it. I have never written essays or diaries to speak
of, and I find it difficult to express myself in words. However, I should
like you, please, for those who read these lines of variable description,
to understand that I ant doing it because of a certain desire that I have
to pass on to those who may not have an opportunity to see England, something
of the picture as it comes to me - something if you please, of the richness
that comes from a place with a lot of history back of it. It is like looking
into the face of a kind old man so rich with life experience.
This morning at 11 o'clock I saw the changing of the King's Guard. In the
afternoon a very attractive student from King's college, and a good friend
of my uncle's, invited us to go with her to school. This evening I walked
down to the Thames River toward the Waterloo Bridge. A very sociable Bobbie
(a policeman) joined me and told me why the bridge was being rebuilt.
July 4: - This is the first fourth of July that I have ever spent without
knowing that it was the fourth of July...... I spent a very pleasant day
with my uncle. We listened to a very fine band in Greenwich Park this afternoon.
..... While we were preparing dinner, we looked at some pictures my uncle
had collected during his travels about Europe. He gave me one of himself
standing on Plymouth Stone, the place where the Pilgrims started to America.
He also gave me a teacup that was part of a wedding present of my great-great-grandfather.
We planned to go to church this morning but the news of Amelia Earhart sending
S.O.S. calls from the ocean came over the radio . However, I hope it will
be our privilege to attend the sermons at one of these famous churches soon.
July 6:- Uncle Hugh and I left Charing Cross Station this morning at eleven
o'clock for Peckham Rye. We traveled about five miles thru the city by train
and got off at a station near Honor Oak Cemetery. We walked by several very
old grave stones until we came to one that stood about five feet above the
ground that marked the grave of my grandmother, grandfather, and Uncle Tom,
My grandmother lived to be fifty years old, my grandfather was seventy-one,
and I think Uncle Tom was thirty-one. The cemetery was beautifully kept.
We went directly to Peckham Rye Park from One Tree Hill. It is now one of
the finest parks in London . We stopped at Rose Cottage on a street that
faces the park. This is the house where my grandparents were living when
my father went to America in 1869. It is a grand old brick cottage, two stories
high, with many vines growing about the doors and windows. My uncle pointed
to the window where father threw his clothes out when he ran away from home
to go to U.S.A. Back of the cottage we could see the plot of ground where
grandfather kept his cow. It is now used for garden plots for other homes
that have sprung up in later years.
Pecknam Rye was a name given to the village when it was first started. Now
it is all a part of London. We walked down the street that faces the park
until we came to Vallance House. My grandfather moved there after he had
lived at Rose Cottage for ten years. Vallance House is another very attractive
old brick house, larger than Rose Cottage. There were eight children in the
family and they needed more room. This is the house in which the family grew
up together. From this, we walked past King Lud's Tavern to Goose Green,
which is another park. We entered St. John's Church where we saw the family
pew. Uncle Tom, my father, Uncle Arthur and Uncle Hugh all sang in the boys'
choir in this church. Uncle John would not sing. Uncle Tom had a grand voice
and at one time took the lead in a solo in a service where the Royal Family
went to church.
From the church we went to the Old College, Dulwich, where my uncles and
dad went to school . We went to the London Zoo. We spent several hours watching
the animals perform then to William Woodroffe's apartment for tea.
July:- Aunt Jessie and Uncle Percy told me many very interesting things
about Alvington Court today. They owned the Court for more than thirty years
and lived there from 1909-1930. Uncle Percy worked the land that goes with
the place and was a very successful farmer. He always kept two or more farm
hands and one house servant. He took a great deal of pride in showing me
the various medals and cups he had won at the Royal Welch Agricultural Society
shows. It was unusually interesting to hear him tell of the fox hunts in
which he had taken part. He kept quite a number of England's finest riding
horses and was a very good rider himself. In 1908 he rode the horse that
won second place at the Royal Welch race course.
Alvington Court is rich with history of every kind and has been in the Woodroffe
family since 1500 A.D. You will note from the pictures of the house there
are no windows in the fourth floor. Aunt Jessie is very sure that this space
was used for storing smuggled goods which were carried thru a tunnel under
the ground from the Severn River where ocean boats could come from foreign
countries. There is one chimney that leads to this room that she thinks was
used for ventilation. The chimneys are unusually tall and large. There is
a shaft that leads from the basement to the fourth floor of the house. Another
very interesting and noteworthy characteristic feature of this house is the
thick walls. By actual measurement they are four and one-half feet thick.
It is thought that they were built in this way to resist destruction. They
gave me cannon balls that were dug up about the grounds and they believe
that they were fired into the structure during the various wars that took
place when Oliver Cromwell's Round Heads were destroying the Land Lord's
Castles in England. If the old house could only reveal all of it's mysteries,
I could give more authentic facts. However, it was, Uncle John, I am sure
you will agree that there is much to imagine from what is left for us to
look at. Uncle Percy gave me a statement in regard to a transfer of the lands
that once belonged to Alvington Court with Sir Robert Woodroffe's signature
and seal on it. It was dated May 6, 1609. He is of the opinion that more
than 2000 acres of land once belonged to this estate. I have also a newspaper
clipping that describes a flood that took place in 1648 that killed over
400 of my great-great-great- grandfather's sheep.
July 18:- Tintern Abbey is only three miles from Alvington. My Dad and uncles
played about the Old Abbey when they were boys and I enjoyed stories my uncles
told me about the place. They said they walked along on top of the old walls
when they were covered with vines.
July 19:-..... We went to Plusterwine farm and took several pictures. My
father spent many happy days here with his grandfather when he was a boy
on this farm and for a long time I have been forming pictures of this old
house from his descriptions. It is a grand old place in perhaps one of the
most picturesque spots in the world. You can see from the front of the house
the River Severn. Uncle Percy was born in this house and he told a very interesting
story about an old sailing vessel that came up from the ocean in 1888 and
struck a sand bank in front of the house. The captain's wife and son were
drowned when the boat upset.
We walked from Old Plusterwine to Wollaston Cathedral. We saw the monuments
in various places about the churchyard of various members of the family with
dates as far back as 1665. There are three large stone tablets on the walls
inside the church describing the various members of our family buried under
the alter in the church. These are individ ually described in my uncle's
geneology.
July 21:- My uncle gave me a teacup and saucer which is real Crown Derby
China, and is part of a tea and coffee service which was a wedding present
to my great-great-grandfather, James Woodroffe, who died in 1822. Uncle Percy
and Aunt Jessie gave me a large 300 page book written by hand, showing the
lessons in mathematics, history, bookkeeping and law, by James Woodroffe.
The date of this book is 1698. I appreciate these gifts more than I can tell
you and I am sure they will always be among my fondest remembrances.
Mr. H. B. Greene, Editor for Chepstow Advertiser, a local magazine, wrote
a very interesting article in 1893, when he was studying historic English
families and Roman architecture. It is most interesting to read, after you
have seen all the places just as he saw them. He describes Plusterwine and
Alvington as follows:
"I have found another unrecorded Roman camp at Plusterwine, Wollaston. Near
the modern mansion are the remains of a Roman camp much older, in part of
which still exists a grand old fire-place. In the Parliamentary Civil Wars
Mr. James Woodroffe, gentleman - who might write himself down as 'armiger',
or entitled to wear a distinguished coat of arms, - fought in the battle
of Beachley under the Royalist leader, his near neighbor, Sir John Wintour,
of Lydney. Plusterwine was garrisoned and well stored with arms. It was surrounded
with a moat, still visible. Tradition says it was besieged by the Parliamentary
soldiers, and that some earthworks to the east of it were used at that time.
That may be; but, judging from hasty examination, I thought that this was
a camp of much greater descent. The Woodroffes of Plusterwine trace directly
from John Woodrove (probably son of Richard Woderouffe living 1378), who
had lands at Wolley, near Wakefield (1397). His great grand-son, Sir Richard
Woodroffe, twice High Sheriff of Yorkshire, died in 1522. Richard, a member
of this family, married Lady Elizabeth Percy, daughter of the Seventh Earl
of Northumberland and of Ann, third daughter of the Second Earl of Worcester
(ancester of the Duke of Beaufort) whose grand tomb is to be seen in Chepstow
Church; she was living in 1604. Another, Sir Nicholas Woodroffe, was Lord
Mayor of London in 1579. Another, Sir George, was High Sheriff of Surrey
in 1668 and Member of Parliament for godalming, 1680-55. James Woodroffe
of Wollaston, the Royalist soldier, was fighting at Beachley in 1645, and
died about 1690. In the Mortuary chapel in Alvington Church, is the following
curious epitaph; (See in other footnotes of Pedigree).
Another member of the family, Benjamin Woodroffe, a Greek scholar, was Chaplin
to James, Duke of York in 1669, and to Charles the Second; and by King Charles
the II was nominated Dean of Christ Church, Oxford. He was also Principal
of Gloucester Hall, Oxford. Samuel Woodroffe (twin with Issac), of Huntfield
House, Chepstow, married in 1817 Martha Prichard, of the very ancient and
noble family of Prichard of Llanover, which claimed descent from Sir Cradock
Vraich Vras (one of the knights of King Arthur's Round Table) and even from
the celebrated Ctractacus; and they were the parents of Mr. William Henry
Woodroffe, now (1893) living at Plusterwine House. Henry Woodroffe was Percy
Woodroffe's father.
The name 'Plusterwine' is so singular that it's derivation has puzzled me.
For the following I am indebted to the courtesy of Mr. James G. Wood:
"The Parish of Wollaston contained several helmets, two of which were named
Brookend and Plusterwine. The first seems to point to another instance of
what we now see between Pandy Mills and Wellhead, in the Mounton valley;
again between a point in the road to the Wynd-cliff and the Cold Batn; and
again on the Whittington Brook in the Dean Forest, - namely a brook passing
beneath the surface, being lost awhile and again reappearing. If this was
so at Wollaston at any time (and it may have been so a few centuries ago,
and yet not now - for streams frequently change their courses, especially
in palaeozoic areas), this would account for the name Plusterwine, if it
is derived from 'Plwy-ystarwain'; that is, 'the helmet of the gushing forth'.
I cannot conjecture any other meaning. The word is a strange one, and I should
like to find if there by any varieties of its orthography. Fosbroke writes
'Custerwine', but I cannot accept his diction on every point.
I revisited Plusterwine and more carefully examined the disturbance of the
surface in the paddock, the adjoining orchard, the Hill Place, and the Upper
Chester Field. I remarked that that seemed a significant name, for it closely
resembles the Roman word Castra, which means camp. While walking over the
ground I described to Mr. Woodroffe the DOUBLE WALLS which I had noticed
first, at Tut-hill, and afterwards at the Wynd-cliff and near East Vaga House
on Tideham Chase; and ask if in his experience in agricultural matters he
had found such walls used for mere boundry purposes. He replied that he had
not. We went thru the fields which he had mentioned, and I pointed out to
him lines of a mount which assured me that there was the site of a camp many
hundreds of years older than the siege of his house by Cromwell's soldiers.
He told me that besides the Upper Chester Ormeiod had found various Roman
articles; and that he himself had in other fields often seen fragments of
pottery which he had passed without much attention. We were returning to
the house when at the top of the Paddock, I suddenly came upon a long line
of double walls which I had just before described to him!!!.' This discovery
was to me a revelation. I was now forced to the conclusion that such walls
were really the ramparts not of British but of Roman construction, and then
came further conviction which I will state by and by, and which no doubt
cause some commotion among the local aantiquaries.”
July 24:- We left Alvington with Mr. Roberts from the Globe Hotel at 8:30
A.M. for Lydney where we got on the train and passed between Alvington Court
and the Severn River. We could see the sheep in the fields. Some of the land
was not green with grass and showed the effect of the tide water that spreads
over it every day. The salt water has checked the growth of the grass. Alvington
Court is a very stately old Castle standing up on a high terrace far enough
back of the river so that the water can never reach it. We could see the
exact location of the tunnel that connects the house with the river. This
was the tunnel that was used to transfer smuggled goods from the ships that
came in from the ocean.
We soon passed Wollaston Church and took one more look at the trees in the
yard about the Church where hundreds of monuments mark the graves, some with
dates as far back as l665. We could plainly see old Pluster wine not over
a mile from the river.
When we arrived at Bath, we walked directly to the Grand Pump Hotel and
went to the Roman baths. My great-grandfather Bishop owned half inter est
in this hotel from 1830 to 1865. It was with unusual interest that I recalled
the stories that my father told me about his visits to this place when he
lived in London. I clearly remember him telling of his grandfather washing
the wheels of his carriages in the warm water which came thru springs from
over 5,000 feet under the ground. I went to the Art Gallery and found a very
large picture of this hotel showing twelve carriages with six horses hitched
to each standing in front of the hotel.
I was very much surprised to learn that my great-grandfather's horse stables
were located directly over the old Roman baths and that it was the water
from these springs that he used to wash his carriages. I spent several hours
looking up the history of this place and found in a book a very interesting
story about the hotel that I sat down and read before I could move on my
way. You will find the story in the little book that I am bringing along
with me. We spent an hour walk about the old Roman baths. The pictures will
give you a clearer description as to their size and shape. They are said
to be the finest remains of Roman Architecture in England. They were built
about 54 A. D.
Pulteney (might be 'Putney') Street where my grandmother lived is pictured
in the little book on one of the most historic streets in Bath. The house,
built wall to wall with the others in the street is 5 stories high and has
a frontage of about 35 feet. It has 12 bedrooms in it. In those days very
large families were not uncommon. My grand- mother was the youngest of 15
children so it was necessary to have a large house. She was educated along
with her brothers and sisters in Bath and in Paris where she studied Art,
Literature and Music. Her father was very successful in business and when
she was 25 years old she received her share of his estate, about 10,000 pounds.
She gave each of her children 1,000 pounds when they were 21 years old. It
was this money that enabled my father to come to America. (Note: - Since
our father, Wm. E. Woodroffe, came to America when he was 17 years old, he
could not have received this money until some time after he was here. I think
Hugh means that it was this money that enabled him to finish payment for
his farm. My mother told me that father had no money when he came to America
- that he worked for a rag peddler in Chicago before he came to Mt. Pleasant,
Ia. where friends of his parents lived. I remember hearing him say that he
arrived in America with seven English coins in his pocket. - Arthur E. Woodroffe).
It is a very interesting story and I have at least straightened it out with
a fair degree of satisfaction. There is great satisfaction in seeing the
old hotel site and the Roman baths. I drank a cup of water that is now used
to cure so many ailments. You will note from the descriptions in the various
books I have secured that the following noteworthy people stayed at the White
Hart Inn (it was later called the Grand Pump Hotel) while my great- grandfather
was proprietor: Lame Bartley, Benjamin Disralli, Charles Dickens, Moses Pickwick,
Gen. Pacli and Tom Moore. My Uncle John, who now lives in New London, Ia.,
recently made me a present of my grandmother's dictionary. It has her signature,
Kate Bishop, with her picture on the first page. She became quite famous
as a musician. She studied pipe organ at the Cathedral in Bath for many years.
She died at the age of 50 and is buried with my grandfather and Uncle Tom
in London.
Aug. 4:- Memories of Old England. My visit to England leaves many pleasant
memories.
(Ed note: The Amelia Earhart reference on July 4th dates this entry to 1937)